there’s still time to put some love in your summer
by dana harrison-tidwell
if you’re under the age of 40, the summer of love may mean no more to you than a few fleeting passages read in books or magazines. perhaps to you the summer of love is merely a vague reference mentioned here and there by your parents, accompanied by a few wistful sighs.
setting things straight
historically speaking, the pivotal summer of love is the time when the ideas of peace and love for all people and all things becomes the defining credo of the hippie movement. the radical (some even say dangerous) notion of free love is generally considered to have its beginnings in san francisco in the summer of 1967. in northern new mexico, however, the summer of love marks the branding of the taos area as one of the most concentrated centers of the counterculture lifestyle, and the cultivating of what has become one of the most prolific and wildly diverse artistic communities in the world.
dennis hopper at the mabel dodge luhan house during the filming
of easy rider – hopper eventually purchased the taos property and hacienda
[photo via city of taos]
for taos, the summer of love kicks off not in 1967, but in 1969 with the release of the classic dennis hopper film, easy rider. hopper, who directed and helped write the movie, was living in taos and definitely feeling the need to clear up some of the film industry’s misconceptions about hippie culture.
dennis hopper speaks to the media at the kick off of the
summer of love festival 2009 at the harwood museum of art, taos, nm
[photo by david holland]
“they were just getting it all wrong,” says hopper of hollywood in the late 1960s. so hopper decided it was time to set things straight.
the result is a movie that exposes the raw intensity of a free, simplistic, communal, co-operational way of life … and one that lays bare traditional conservative prejudice in all its ugly glory. a story about a cross country motorcycle trip from los angeles to new orleans, easy rider develops as a tale of two hippies, the people they meet and their adventures (good and bad) as they travel. the film entrenches three actors as movie icons: dennis hopper, peter fonda and jack nicholson. hopper states that the soundtrack emerged organically as he edited the film while listening to then-current music, and some of the most memorable tracks in movie history by jimi hendrix (“if 6 was 9”), the byrds (“wasn’t born to follow”) and steppenwolf (“born to be wild”) were spontaneous additions.
though long touted as a glorification of drug use and freewheeling reckless abandon on the surface, the film’s deeper appeal is the universal theme of finding a sense of place in an america that at the time was moving rapidly from the idealized status quo of the 1950s into a time of radicalization, social upheaval and political polarization. filming large portions of easy rider in northern new mexico, hopper places taos on the map as a significant locus of alternative life, a center of new thought and new ideals. though san francisco locates the birth of the hippie movement, taos is indelibly branded as the cradle in which the best aspects of the counterculture grow and mature, and easy rider shines as its tanned, weathered and contemplative face.
easy rider has become the quintessential 1960s hippie film, and with taos as the center of the film’s universe, the area continues to draw dedicated and remarkable people into its orbit: artists and bikers, writers and hippies, filmmakers and commune organizers, musicians and malcontents, modern-day philosophers and farmers. the result is a kinetic, crazy, illogical but irrepressible spirit that somehow, to this day, seems to balance and thrive on an undercurrent of generosity, communication and – perhaps most importantly – art. many of the curious who strayed to taos to find themselves in the 1960s are still living there today.
easy rider and you
what does this mean for you? it means that this summer, for the price and time of a mere short road trip, you have the opportunity to celebrate 40 years of incredible cultural history in taos with the summer of love festival 2009, which commemorates the 40th anniversary of the filming of easy rider and the emergence of taos as a geographical icon in american history. it means you are in the unique position to learn more about how firmly taos has rooted itself as an artist’s hub, and to pass on that knowledge to the next generation. it means you can, in a few short days, “turn on, tune in and drop out” by immersing yourself in travel for the sake of beauty and art. it means you can rediscover the counterculture transformation that transcends racial, political and stereotypical lines and embraces the positive possibilities in everyone and everything with unparalleled style and graciousness. this summer, you and your family can all become modern-day “easy riders.”
hopper speaks about the evolution of his photography in front of “Chiaroscuro” (1963),
one of his first pieces to incorporate objects with photos
[photo by david holland]
with the may 2009 kickoff of the “hopper at the harwood” exhibit, the harwood museum in taos, sets the tone for the upcoming summer of love festival 2009 events with an amazing collection of photography and artwork from the late 1960s by artists living in or connected to taos during that time: robert dean stockwell, larry bell, ron cooper, ronald davis, ken price and dennis hopper himself. the exhibition runs may through september, and there are other events ongoing in galleries, museums, hotels and restaurants throughout the city, each with a focus on particular aspects of art and film and how they have both influence and been influenced by taos over the years.
(from left to right) ronald davis, ron cooper, robert dean stockwell, dennis hopper, larry bell
[photo by william davis]
your own easy-riding road trip – starting from las cruces, nm and ending in taos, nm
day 1
while following in the easy rider tradition of hopping a motorcycle and heading out on the open road for a cross country jaunt may be difficult for most, those of us in new mexico have a distinct advantage over travelers in other states. pack a weekend bag with some comfortable clothes, load up the car with the kids (and the dog if you’re so inclined) and set out on i-25 heading north to take advantage of some of the most magnificent vistas you’ve ever seen. if you’re traveling with children, plan for at least four days with frequent stops along the way.
make your first stop only an hour away from las cruces in truth or consequences for an early soak at one of the hot springs located throughout the town. many have hourly rates so you don’t have to commit to a night’s stay. riverbend hot springs has the only outdoor springs on the banks of the rio grande, is smoke-free and offers amazing views of turtleback mountain. pools are available to the public for $10.00/hour for adults (additional hours at $5.00 each) and for kids for $5.00/hour (additional hours at $5.00 each), or you can get a private pool for $15.00/hour for adults (additional hours at $10.00 each) and kids for $5.00/hour (additional hours at $5.00 each).
plan a short detour from i-25 north of truth or consequences onto 195 (exit 83) to elephant butte lake state park (575.744.5921 or 1.888.nm.parks) for a picnic on the beach for a small park fee of $5.00 per car per day.
when you’re ready to get back on the road, merely hop back on i-25 heading north again. a few hours will bring you to the city of albuquerque. if you have a little time to spare, take exit 224-b and travel a few blocks north to central avenue. if you turn right on central, you’ll quickly come to the area near the university of new mexico known as knob hill, home to dozens of coffee shops, funky little restaurants and eclectic shops. if you turn left on central (that famous “left toin at albuquerque” that bugs bunny says he should have made …), you’ll drive right through the downtown area and end up on historic route 66. it is definitely worth your time to see at least some of this fading icon of american travel history. photo opportunities abound in just a small area, and quirky roadside cafes beckon on almost every corner.
heading north again on i-25 for about another hour’s drive, make your plans to settle in for the late afternoon and evening in santa fe (a great road trip destination in itself!).
the inn of the five graces lobby, santa fe, nm
[photo by david holland]
if you are traveling as a couple, it would be a crime not to spend a luxurious night at the inn of the five graces. a premier relais & chateau resort, the inn of the five graces is a fabulous choice for many reasons. located near the plaza where space is at a premium, the inn has a spacious feel that is instantly relaxing. visitors will find none of the frenetic bustle of traditional check-in/check-out cattle herding mentality. quite the opposite, in fact. the staff are calm and gracious, and make everyone who walks through the door feel comfortable and special.
middle eastern decorated bedroom of the birdsong suite at the inn of the five graces -
this suite is the favorite of travel star and guru, samantha brown
[photo by david holland]
the inn is decorated with a middle eastern sensibility that works seamlessly into new mexico’s ever-present adobe structures. tapestries line the walls. intricate rugs cover the wood floors. a profusion of brightly colored and patterened fabrics cover the carved wood shutters on the windows.
living room of the birdsong suite at the inn of the five graces
[photo by david holland]
stylized ironwork gates separate courtyards. exquisitely colored and meticulously designed tile work and mosaics fill the bathrooms.
remarkable and beautiful tiled bathroom of the birdsong suite
at the inn of the five graces
[photo by david holland]
courtyards are designed to allow guests spaces for both mingling with others and for engaging in intimate conversation with that special someone.
courtyard at the inn of the five graces – love the low-slung swing,
perfect for late night chats (a glass of local wine is a great idea too!)
[photo by david holland]
never does any of the artwork or furniture or landscaping feel intrusive, but always inviting. the resort sets itself widely apart from other venues in that they are inclusive; each room has a complimentary wet bar, as well as complimentary wi-fi access and a complimentary extensive breakfast is served every morning. there is even a resident maltese-chihuahua puppy named dolce who, like the staff, has a remarkably calming effect on the visitors.
dolce, the inn of the five graces’ resident darling canine diva
[photo by david holland]
there is no hard and fast check out policy at the inn of the five graces, so don’t feel pressured to get up and out by 10:00 am. sleep in. linger. enjoy the property. it is an experience you will want to repeat again and again. if you really want a treat, have the inn set up a massage treatment for you ahead of time, and feel every stress just melt away.
during your night at the inn of the five graces, plan to have dinner at the pink adobe which can be accessed through the inn’s main courtyard.
the pink adobe restaurant, or “the pink” as it is known by locals
[photo by david holland]
whether you decide to sit outside or inside, you’re in for a real treat. inside, the tables are covered with brown paper and crayons absolutely beg all diners to leave their mark (literally) with a little original artwork. outside, if it gets a little cool at night, no worries – a central open fire pit provides light and warmth in an intimate atmosphere that will inspire even the most time-conscious diner to linger over another glass of wine from their impressive wine list.
the wine “cellar” at the pink adobe is quite extensive
[photo by david holland]
“the pink” as the restaurant is affectionately known has a reasonably priced and features seafood, a departure from traditional southwestern fare and an homage to the restaurant’s original owner, a lady from new orleans who vowed to bring her southern culinary sensibilities to her new southwestern restaurant. the menu and the sensibilities have stuck, so be sure to sample the seafood: mussels, halibut, shrimp. if beef is more to your taste, you can’t go wrong with the steak donigan, cooked perfectly to order and served with green chile and buttery sautéed mushrooms. for your potato option, try the boiled then deep fried browned potato, no further dressing needed it is so flavorful. end your meal at the pink with the apple pie, and don’t forget to pick up a copy of the pink adobe cookbook so you can try all their famous recipes at home.
the quirky, fun dragon’s den bar
[photo by david holland]
a few steps outside the door of the pink and you’ll find the dragon’s den bar, the perfect spot for a nightcap. aside from a killer wine cellar, the bar itself is amazingly well-stocked and the super bartenders are certain to be able to make just about every drink you can think up (they even opened a bottle of newly-legal absinthe for us!).
trees growing through the roof of the pink adobe’s wine cellar
[photo by david holland]
be sure to take note of the three trees extending straight up through the roof and the amusing monkey chandelier. there’s no doubt that the dragon’s den bar exudes a singular quirky charm and warm atmosphere found few other places.
exterior of the main building of bishop’s lodge resort and spa, santa fe, nm
[photo via bishop’s lodge]
if you’re traveling with the kids, consider driving a little outside the center of town to stay on the history-rich 450 acre grounds of the world-famous bishop’s lodge resort and spa. with 111 rooms, a number of private villas and sprawling wooded mountain property, you’re sure to find accommodations to fit your family’s needs.
each room at bishop’s lodge is designed for maximum comfort
[photo via bishop’s lodge]
rooms offer high-speed internet access, luxurious robes to snuggle into, plenty of space, coffee makers, hair dryers, irons and ironing boards, tvs and many offer automatic fireplaces to turn your evening into a truly lovely experience. a stream runs through the property so the sound of running water offers a calming backdrop for your experience.
the skilled staff at shanah spa will help you shed your stress
[photo via bishop’s lodge]
family events are planned throughout the year at bishop’s lodge so check their website to find out what’s happening during your stay. for the kids, there are tennis courts, horseback riding on-site, a pool and even a small spring-fed stocked fishing pond. for dad, there’s skeet and trap shooting every day in the afternoon. and for mom, the shanah spa offers relaxing spa treatments in a calm minimalist atmosphere to soothe even the most ragged nerves. nature trails abound and are a treat for all visitors, and the yoga and fitness room is a perfect way to unwind and stay healthy while you’re on the road.
historic jean baptiste lamy chapel on the grounds of bishop’s lodge
[photo via bishop’s lodge]
be sure to check out the historical chapel on the grounds above the main building, once the residence and chapel of bishop jean baptiste lamy (the subject of willa cather's death comes for the archbishop and paul horgan's biography, lamy of santa fe).
a genuinely family-friendly resort, the bishop’s lodge offers fine dining without pretention in the las fuentes restaurant & bar, with a menu changing seasonally to fully take advantage of the freshest local ingredients.
day 2
take 285 north through española and up to taos (about an hour and a half drive). here’s where the real fun begins. the summer of love festival 2009 has events (300+) ongoing throughout the summer, may through september, with a lot of great things happening for kids as well as adults. add the summer of love calendar to the taos city calendar and you’ve got plenty of options.
rio grande river near taos, nm
[photo by gerain smith]
accommodation choices are numerous and diverse in the taos area so it all depends on you and what you need. if you’re traveling as a couple, consider something a little off the beaten track, outside downtown taos, something with incredible views and a calm, friendly, laid-back atmosphere. just a few minutes outside the city center, tucked away on a country road, is the little tree inn (www.littletreebandb.com, 575.776.8467), owned and managed by maggie and gordon johnston.
the inviting rockers on the porch of the little tree inn were
a great tip-off that this is a place where relaxation is required
[photo by david holland]
a small traditional adobe property that is re-mudded every year, the inn’s four uniquely decorated rooms are situated around a communal, blue-gated beautifully landscaped courtyard which looks out on all sides to remarkable vistas.
the splendid courtyard of the little tree inn was carefully laid out
by the owners, and the results are both colorful and soothing
[photo by david holland]
guests are welcome to relax around the courtyard (rocking chairs provide a soothing respite from the day), the living room, small library and dining room. each morning is greeted with coffee, juice and a fantastic two course breakfast cooked to order by the owners.
imagine waking up to gourmet cooking every morning …
you can at the little tree inn – this was sooooo yummy!
[photo by david holland]
afternoons are a time to slow down a bit for tea and other refreshments (including some homemade baked goodies), and maybe a little conversation with the delightful inn owners. the inn’s resident dogs and cat are always happy to sit still for a scratch behind the ears as they roam around greeting the guests.
writer and diva editor dana harrison-tidwell with little tree inn owner maggie johnston
[photo by david holland]
photographer david holland and little tree inn owner maggie johnston
[photo by dana harrison-tidwell]
the view of the night sky away from the lights of town is breathtaking, and a good enough reason in itself to stay at the warm and gracious little tree inn.
if staying closer to the plaza is more your thing, consider the hotel la fonda de taos or the historic taos inn, both long-standing favorites located in the center of the hustle and bustle of downtown galleries, restaurants and shops.
hotel la fonda, one of the oldest inns in taos
[courtesy of hotel la fonda]
the hotel la fonda (www.lafondataos.com, 575.758.2211) is the only hotel located actually on the plaza, and the historic property houses a surprising bonus: the d.h. lawrence gallery (careful if you’re traveling with kids, though – the artwork includes many nudes).
the d.h. lawrence exhibit at the hotel la fonda
[courtesy of hotel la fonda]
also housed on-site is a restaurant not to be missed during your stay. joseph’s table and the butterfly bar holds the unusual distinction of being both a famed “go-to” for visitors as well as the favorite local restaurant of many a fiercely loyal but finicky taos resident. the décor is open and inviting, but warm and elegant.
one of the “love shacks” at joseph’s table in taos, nm
[image via joseph’s table website]
notable and delightful are the “love shacks” along the back wall of the restaurant, small lushly curtained dining niches just big enough for two and perfect for an intimate dinner. ask for both the bar and dinner menus, and don’t dare leave without trying the duck fat fries and whatever seasonal specials are available that night. you will not be disappointed.
the historic taos inn, a piece of truly interesting americana
[courtesy of the historic taos inn]
the historic taos inn (www.taosinn.com, 575.758.2233) is a quirky-cool amalgam of traditional architecture, an interesting history and one of the most recognizable neon signs in taos, harkening back to the 1960s and the days of the funky little motor lodge. if you’re looking to immerse yourself in a bit of local legend, the historic taos inn is the place to be.
multicolored margaritas abound at the adobe bar
[courtesy of the historic taos inn]
on-site are the adobe bar and doc martin’s restaurant, both offering excellent food. the adobe bar boasts an entire margarita menu (try the fire on the mountain margarita), and an abbreviated bar menu of munchies from doc martin’s restaurant. doc martin’s is one of those visitor favorites that also holds the affection of many locals.
chile rellanos at doc martin’s restaurant
[courtesy of the historic taos inn]
with extensive breakfast, lunch, dinner, weekend brunch and dessert menus, the most difficult decision is deciding what to choose. try the grilled rattlesnake-rabbit sausage, crispy quail, elk burger or the chef’s mixed grill for treats you won’t soon forget.
the historic taos plaza at night
[courtesy of city of taos]
take some time to tour the plaza vicinity and the wealth of galleries and shops available there. right off the plaza is the harwood museum, housing the “hopper at the harwood” exhibit central to the summer of love festival 2009. be sure to visit the kit carson house as well for a bit of even older local history.
day 3
get outside the city center for awhile. there’s plenty to do outside around taos. take a drive up us 64 to the rio grande gorge bridge for amazing views on either side of the bridge.
few things can make me look smaller than a huge freakin’ canyon
[photo by david holland]
head down millicent rogers road to the millicent rogers museum. take upper ranchitos road to highway 240 to see the hacienda martinez, then down lower ranchitos road to san francisco de asis church. travel back up paseo del pueblo sur straight to the taos pueblos.
taos pueblos
[courtesy of city of taos]
back down to us 64, turn right and look for mountain comfort plaza on the right side of the road, a charming little collection of sculpture, gardens, shops and restaurants.
mountain comfort plaza, home of middle eastern eatery, el gamal
[photo by david holland]
a particularly interesting find is a small food trailer near the back of the complex, home of the middle eastern eatery, el gamal. new to the area, el gamal is a treasure for anyone who likes this type of food: falafel, humus, babaganush, pita, dolmas, labane, olives and a tall iced chai tea will set you perfectly right for the rest of your day.
turn right back onto us 64, then right onto taos ski valley road and you will soon come to the small charming artist community of arroyo seco.
arroyo seco, home of amazing ice cream!
[photo by david holland]
wander the galleries, and then stop at the taos cow for local organic homemade ice cream, a dessert treat to help you slow down and enjoy your day even more.
the delightful taos cow ice cream company in arroyo seco, nm
[image via taos cow website]
the shopfronts and signs themselves are art in the tiny
artists’ community of arroyo seco, just outside taos, nm
[photo by david holland]
follow taos ski valley road farther up into the mountains for delightful views and plan your next visit for winter during ski season in the little alpine-like village near the top of taos mountain.
taos ski mountain’s elevation is so high, there’s snow on the ground … even in may!!
[photo by david holland]
back down the mountain and right along highway 522 will take you to the d.h. lawrence ranch, a must see for anyone who loves lawrence’s literature.
if adventuring is more your speed, consider taking a wild earth llama adventure tour, which allows you to trek with llamas down into cool gorge areas in the company of a well-versed local guide. rafting, horseback riding, biking and hiking are all available in the taos area and can be found on the taos vacation guide website.
day 4
start early and take your time driving back down to las cruces. if you see a restaurant or gallery or point of interest that catches your eye … for goodness sake, stop! embracing the summer of love festival also means embracing that natural curiosity for new and exciting experiences that resides at the very heart of the counterculture movement. enjoy your trip, and enjoy your summer. take it easy, and ride!
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